Crack welding
Cracked alloys aren't always scrap. Where structurally safe, we TIG-weld the crack, dress the metal and finish over the top so the repair disappears.
Some cracks are too far gone, but plenty aren't. We assess the position, length and orientation of the crack, decide whether it is safe to repair, then TIG-weld the alloy, dress the bead, and refinish under powder or lacquer. If we wouldn't put it on our own car, we'll tell you straight.
Cracked alloys are the most common wheel write-off, but a lot of them are repairable. The decision comes down to where the crack is, how long it is, which direction it runs in, and whether the wheel has been welded before.
Cracks on the inboard barrel near the bead seat, or on the spoke roots near the centre, are usually repairable when caught early. Cracks across the spokes, around the bolt circle, or radiating from previous bad welds are usually scrap. We assess each wheel honestly.
Repair is TIG welding on alloy - clean, controlled, with the wheel pre-heated and the weld dressed back flush. Refinished afterwards under powder coat or, for diamond cut wheels, under fresh lathe-cut lacquer. The repair vanishes.
What you get
- Honest crack assessment first
- TIG welding on alloy
- Refinished after weld so the repair vanishes
- Cheaper than buying a replacement rim
How the work is done
- Assess. Crack measured, photographed and located. We tell you straight whether it's repairable, marginal or scrap.
- Strip. Coatings stripped back from around the weld zone so we're welding clean alloy, not painted alloy.
- Pre-heat. Wheel pre-heated so the weld pool flows properly and the parent metal doesn't shock-cool around the bead.
- TIG weld. Crack welded with TIG on alloy filler. Fully penetrated through the section, not a cosmetic surface bead.
- Dress. Weld bead dressed back flush with the parent metal so the finish lays flat over the top.
- Refinish. Wheel refinished in powder or lacquer over the dressed weld so the repair is invisible.
Pricing
Quoted on the wheel after inspection. Length, position, refinish requirement and whether it's a single or multiple crack all factor in.
How to get a quote
Drop the parts in for a quick check, or send us a few photos by email or text. We come back with a price and a turnaround time, usually same day.
Crack welding FAQs.
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Are welded alloys safe to drive on?
When the crack was repairable in the first place and the weld is full-penetration TIG with proper pre-heat, yes. We don't repair cracks we wouldn't drive on ourselves and we tell you up front if a wheel is scrap.
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Which cracks can't be repaired?
Cracks across the spokes, around the bolt circle, radiating from a previous bad weld, or on wheels with multiple cracks are usually scrap. Crack position and orientation matter more than length.
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Will the repair show?
No. We dress the weld bead flush and refinish over the top in powder or lacquer. The repair vanishes once the wheel is back on the car.
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Is it cheaper than a replacement?
Usually, especially on premium wheels where a single replacement rim can run into hundreds. On older or cheaper wheels the maths is closer; we'll tell you straight.
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Can I drive in with a cracked wheel?
Only if the tyre is holding pressure and you're going slow. Long drives on a cracked alloy aren't safe - cracks propagate. If in doubt, get the spare on and bring the wheel in separately.